A woman relaxing with a soft blanket on bed

Melasma. Etiologic and therapeutic considerations

This review lists the causes of melasma, including genes, sunlight, pregnancy and hormones, and states that hydroquinone remains the most effective topical bleaching agent approved by the FDA, while the place of lasers in melasma is not yet established.

Grimes PE. Archives of dermatology, 1995.

What it means for a patient

  • Pregnancy, hormone therapy, sun exposure, some cosmetics and some medicines are linked to melasma.
  • Hydroquinone was the most effective approved bleaching cream at the time of the review.
  • Chemical peels call for caution in darker skin, per the author.
  • The role of lasers in melasma was unproven when this review was written.
  • The author treats the emotional effect of skin darkening as part of the treatment decision.
  • This is a review. It reports no new patient data.

Why this paper matters

It set out the causes of melasma and named hydroquinone the most effective FDA-approved topical bleaching agent.

Overview

Melasma is a common acquired darkening of sun-exposed skin in symmetric, irregular light-brown to gray-brown spots and patches. The author reviews its causes and its treatments: bleaching agents, chemical peels and lasers. Melasma is described as often difficult to treat.

Findings

  • Causes named: genetic influences, UV radiation, pregnancy, hormonal therapies, cosmetics, phototoxic drugs and antiseizure medicines.
  • Current treatments: hypopigmenting agents, chemical peels and lasers.
  • Phenolic agents: hydroquinone and hydroquinone combination preparations.
  • Despite controversy about hydroquinone-induced ochronosis, hydroquinone remains the most effective topical bleaching agent approved by the FDA for melasma.
  • Nonphenolic agents: tretinoin and azelaic acid.
  • Superficial, medium and deep chemical peels are used more often in lighter-skinned patients and should be used with caution in Black patients.
  • Lasers have shown efficacy in several hyperpigmentation disorders, but their efficacy and place in melasma treatment are not yet established.
  • The author states that the treating physician must weigh the psychosocial impact of pigment problems against the benefits and risks of each treatment.
  • The abstract gives no patient numbers.

Terms

  • Melasma: patchy brown or gray-brown darkening of sun-exposed skin, mostly on the face.
  • Hypermelanosis: darkening of the skin from extra melanin pigment.
  • Macule: a flat, discolored spot on the skin.
  • Hypopigmenting agent: a product that lightens skin color.
  • Hydroquinone: a cream that lightens dark skin patches.
  • Ochronosis: a blue-black darkening of the skin that can follow long-term hydroquinone use.
  • Tretinoin: a vitamin A cream that speeds skin cell turnover.
  • Azelaic acid: a cream used to lighten pigment.
  • Chemical peel: an acid applied to the skin to remove its outer layers.
  • Phototoxic drug: a medicine that makes skin react to sunlight.

Newest papers on phenol and croton oil peels

The latest studies on the same subject.

2026
Characterization of the Effects of Dermal Tattoo Machine Delivery versus Conventional Topical Delivery of Croton Oil and Hetter Phenol-Croton Oil Formula
Ghanian S, Claudia Morais de Oliveira Capote A, da Silva Justo A, Letícia Moreira da Silva T, Luis Beltrame F, Gustavo Wambier C · Dermatol Surg · PMID 41081308
2026
Treating Cutaneous Lip Scars With Phenol-Croton Oil Peeling
Sterling JB, Soon SL, Wambier CG · Dermatol Surg · PMID 41886681
2026
Rejuvenating the Periocular Region With a TCA-Croton Oil Peel
Nogueira GC, de Freitas Macedo Oliveira RI, de Souza V, Miot HA · Dermatol Surg · PMID 41854485